November 12, 2005

Last week Dory picked up a bottle of 2000 Barolo from Trader Joe's, a California specialty grocery chain that has a few branches near Boston. It was from "La Loggia" a producer in Aqui Terme.  The price was $13.95

I was very skeptical.  We had an invitation to a dinner party where the main course was Osso Buco, which of course would be perfect for a hearty northern Italian red.  I choose to pass on the cheap Barolo.  Instead I chose a bottle of Parrina special reserve, a Supertuscan mix from the Marrema with sangiovese, cabernet savignon, and merlot.  It tasted like chocolate, rich, subtle, lingering tastes.  As a second bottle I brought a bottle of 1999 Gattinara Travaligni.  This had the tannins that complemented the Osso Buco, but tasted a little harsh to me after the Parrina.  Maybe my tastes are changing.

But back to the cheap barolo.  Dory had to travel back to Boston and we hadn't tasted it yet.  If it was good she should probably buy more.  I decided to make a Barolo Risotto. and to grill some sausage to go with it.  If the wine wasn't any good at least I would enjoy a hearty meal on a cold night.

I opened the bottle and poured a glass.  It was light in color, more like a dolcetto or even a pinot noir but not the robust reddish-brown color that I had expected. Against a white background it showed legs but not thick and viscous.  The bottle said it was 14 percent alcohol. It certainly smelled like Barolo, rich, earthy, complex. I swirled and tasted.

It was quite good, not as full bodied as I had expected but still full of earth, cherry, and surprisingly modest tannins.  It lacked the lingering taste that I always associate with a good Barolo, but at $14 it was quite a wine.  Kit tasted it and said it was good but a little light for a Barolo.  (Not a bad assessment from a 18 year old who generally doesn't drink wine!)  We enjoyed it with the Risotto and I was a little sorry to have been cooking with this wine.  The Risotto was good, the sausages were a good side dish, and the wine was gone too soon.

I think I'll ask Dory to get a case.
She had also picked up a bottle of Amarone for $12.99.

I guess I'll have to try that soon.

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